Pavlovo-Posad printed shawls. Pavlovsky Posad shawls What is typical for shawls from Pavlovsky Posad

The history of the Pavlovsky Posad shawl begins at the end of the 17th century, and it is thanks to Russian craftsmen that this headdress has become known all over the world and has long become a hallmark of Russia. But, unlike the Russian matryoshka, Pavlovsky Posad shawls, in addition to aesthetic value, also have the widest practical application.

For the first time, the Pavlovo-Posad factory for the production of scarves with the author's printed pattern was mentioned in 1795. Like many similar productions, it was founded by a wealthy peasant - Ivan Labzin. In those years, the peasants willingly started their own business, but not everyone grew as well as the enterprise founded by Labzin, and even more so, not everyone acquired such fame.

In the 50s of the 19th century, the craft for the manufacture of shawls turned into a trading house "Yakov Labzin and Vasily Gryaznov", producing stuffed shawls and scarves. Multicolored shawls glorified Pavlovsky Posad all over the world.

A luxurious rose shimmering with all sorts of rainbow colors has become a symbol of the Pavlovo Posad shawl. And the established style - from a large pattern along the edges to a small one in the center, and catchy flowers in the corners - is still the hallmark of the factory today.

The number of tones in the pattern is from 10 to 18, but can reach up to 30. The arrangement of patterns with ovals, stars, "medallions", figures from flower garlands or ornamental stripes add originality to the pattern. It is noteworthy that Russian artists borrowed elements for painting scarves from other cultures: this is a lotus, and chamomile, and antique vases, and bouquets of flowers, and birds, and ancient symbols, and many other images...

However, the main leitmotif of the Pavlovsky Posad shawls is still the life of the Russian people: on the fabric, the artists manage to capture a difficult fate, and right next to it are joyful and cheerful episodes from people's lives.

Initially, skilled craftsmen painted handkerchiefs, which required special skill. However, at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, production was automated by the Moscow manufacturers Guchkovs. And right there, Russian shawls began to receive the highest awards for quality at fairs and exhibitions. Even then, the production technique made it possible to make patterns on scarves one- and two-sided, a huge selection of scarves was offered: in a variety of patterns, and for different weather, and for different occasions. Of course, they were initially available to women from the higher classes of merchants.

At that time, there were several well-known factories: in the Kaluga province, the Alexandrov factory and in the Moscow province, the Pavlovo Posad manufactory of Labzin and Gryaznov, which later became the most famous of all Russian shawl industries. Each factory has its own business card: a pattern that immediately shows which factory produced the scarf. For example, Pavlovsky Posad shawls are famous for their dense floral pattern: along the edges of the shawl there are lush flowers (usually field, garden, which the Russian land is rich in; these are also lilies, however, although the pattern is considered classic, it is less common than, for example, roses) , in the center most often there are small garlands. Also in Pavloposad shawls, oriental ornaments are used (oriental cucumber or paisley - a decorative teardrop-shaped ornament), which came to Russia from Asia. In any case, it is always a variety of patterns, fabric textures and undeniable quality.

The factory has developed an author's school of creating handkerchief drawings. The artists working at the enterprise are members of the Union of Artists and the Union of Designers. In 1981 they were awarded the State Prize of the RSFSR named after Ilya Repin, and in 1999 - the State Prize of the Russian Federation in the field of literature and art.

Modern Pavlovo Posad shawls are made not only from wool, but also from silk and cotton. In addition to scarves, a large assortment of shawls and scarves is produced. All these products can be recognized unmistakably - even the most modern drawings are made in the traditional style of Pavlovsky Posad: multi-colored, bright, with filigree details.

Perhaps the popularity of Pavlovo Posad shawls is facilitated by the fact that one of its founders was a saint. Vasily Gryaznov (the same one who participated in the founding of the Yakov Labzin and Vasily Gryaznov trading house, who lived in 1816-1869) was canonized in August 1999 by the Russian Orthodox Church as a saint of the Moscow diocese as Righteous Vasily Pavlovo-Posadsky.
It is not surprising that the art of making Pavlovo Posad shawls has a high spirituality. Without it, it is simply impossible to create unique drawings that make the factory's products popular all over the world.

Initially, the scarf was an element of the national costume, it was worn on the occasion of a holiday or celebration, or, conversely, in sadness (it was not without reason that factories produced scarves for various everyday situations). From time immemorial, shawls have been an indispensable attribute of the traditional costume of a Russian woman. According to the traditional custom, a married Russian woman always hid her hair under a headdress.

Over time, Pavlovo Posad shawls have become more widely used: today they are a favorite headdress and decoration for many fashionistas, they are worn in everyday life, at any time of the year. To this day, Pavlovo Posad shawls are considered the most beautiful, high-quality and chic. For many women, this is the best gift.

Pavlovsky Posad shawls originate from a simple piece of white cloth with embroidery, which was called ubrus. In the seventeenth century, the ubrus with which Russian women covered their heads in everyday life gives way to a scarf, later in the Russian language the word “shawl” borrowed from the Persian language appears, meaning a large patterned scarf worn on the body.

The scarf has always been one of the obligatory attributes of the Russian national traditional costume, both everyday and festive. To appear in public with an uncovered head (straight-haired) was considered the height of indecency in Rus', this custom has survived to our times in Orthodox churches, visiting which a woman must cover her head with a scarf.

Ancient pagan images and symbols, such as songbirds, the tree of life, and the image of a swan, have always been present in traditional patterns of scarves. Later, antique vases and French bouquets, vines and flowerpots with large flowers, borrowed in Europe, masterfully fit into these ornaments. Also in the scarf there was always (as one of the directions) the theme of oriental ornaments - beans and paisley.

The history of the Pavlovo Posad Shawl Manufactory dates back more than two centuries, but the world-famous Pavlovo Posad shawls did not start to be produced here immediately. A well-known production was opened by two merchants: Yakov Labzin and Vasily Gryaznov in the 60s of the nineteenth century, fifty years after the opening of the factory. Throughout the nineteenth century, the company was constantly modernized and grew rich, at the same time constantly struggling with fierce competition, because. products widely demanded in Russia were produced at many factories. Thanks to the talent of artists and craftsmen, the enterprise managed not only to survive, but also to take a leading position in the industry.

Gradually, the enterprise grew and already at the beginning of the twentieth century, the "Labzin and Gryaznov Manufactory Partnership" was the largest enterprise in Russia for the production of woolen scarves, which employed more than 2,000 workers.

After the revolution of 1917, the enterprise was nationalized and transformed into the Staro-Pavlovskaya factory. During the Soviet period, the factory produced scarves mainly using the drawings of old masters, but also products with a “modern” theme (portraits of the leaders of the revolution, industrialization, collectivization of the country) were popular. But gradually the style of Pavlovo Posad shawls returned to the classical direction, and flower ornaments and oriental patterns began to play with bright colors on the shawls again.

Masters and artists of the Pavlovo Posad Shawl Manufactory still delight the eyes of their admirers with exquisite drawings and ornaments, which are constantly improved and modernized, but retain the style and traditions of the old masters.

In the museum of shawls, you can see the whole variety of Pavlovsky Posad shawls, from the old classic samples of hand-made heels of the nineteenth century, avant-garde propaganda shawls of the thirties of the last century to modern shawls and shawls produced by the enterprise at the present time.

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These shawls originate from a simple piece of white embroidered cloth called an ubrus. By the 17th century, the ubrus gave way to a scarf or shawl.

vector-images.com, CC BY-SA 3.0

By the beginning of the 18th century, traditions of handicraft textile production already existed in the region of Pavlovsky Posad. In the Bogorodsky district of the Moscow province, which historically included Pavlovsky Posad, there were more than 70 silk scarf factories owned by peasants.

, CC BY-SA 3.0

The peasant enterprise, from which the shawl manufactory subsequently developed, was created in 1795 by a peasant in the village of Pavlovo, Ivan Dmitrievich Labzin. Labzins had a small production. Most of the materials were distributed to the peasants of the surrounding villages, who produced silk and paper fabrics and scarves at home mills.

Great-grandson, Yakov Ivanovich Labzin, together with Vasily Ivanovich Gryaznov, converted the factory to the production of woolen shawls with a printed pattern, which were widely used in Russian society at that time. The first Pavlovo Posad shawls were produced in the early 60s of the XIX century.

Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0

The heyday of the manufactory falls on the 1870-1880s. In 1881 Yakov Labzin received the title of supplier to the Grand Duchess Alexandra Petrovna, the enterprise was awarded silver medals at the All-Russian Art and Industrial Exhibitions. In 1896, at an industrial exhibition in Nizhny Novgorod, the right to depict the state emblem on signboards and labels was obtained.

After the October Revolution, the enterprise was nationalized and renamed the Staro-Pavlovskaya factory. The enterprise expands its assortment, attempts are made to modernize the appearance of scarves (images of animals, drawings on the themes of revolution, industrialization and collectivization), production of cotton fabrics.

Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0

In 1937, the factory participated in the World Art and Industrial Exhibition in Paris.

In the post-war period, the colors and range of scarves expanded while maintaining traditional motifs and patterns.

In 1958, at the World Exhibition in Brussels, Pavlovian shawls were awarded the Big Gold Medal.

Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0

In 1963, the factory was named the Moscow Handkerchief Production Association. Since 1995 - Pavlovo Posadskaya Shawl Manufactory OJSC.

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Start date: 17th century

Helpful information

History - Pavlovo Posad shawls

Factory names

After 1855, the handkerchief enterprise had different names:

1868 - Full partnership "Yakov Labzin and Vasily Gryaznov"

1892 - Partnership on shares "Partnership of Manufactories Y. Labzin and V. Gryaznov in Pavlovsky Posad"

1918 - the factory was nationalized and became known as

Staro-Pavlovskaya Factory No. 11 of the State Worsted Trust of the Supreme Economic Council

1928 - factory named after the 10th anniversary of the Red Army of the Main Directorate of the woolen industry

1963 - Moscow production shawl association

1989 - Pavlovo-Posad production shawl association

1992 - Closed Joint-Stock Company "Pavlovo-Posad Shawls"

since 1995 - Open Joint Stock Company "Pavlovo Posad Shawl Manufactory"

Vasily Pavlovoposadsky

Vasily Gryaznov was widely known during his lifetime among the surrounding population not only as a manufacturer, but also for his charitable deeds. For many years he was the headman of the Pavlovsky Posad Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ.

In August 1999, V.I.Gryaznov was canonized by the Russian Orthodox Church as a locally venerated saint of the Moscow diocese as Righteous Vasily Pavlovoposadsky.

Pavlovsky Posad, a small ancient Russian city, standing on the banks of the Klyazma River not far from Moscow, is famous throughout Russia and not only for its amazingly beautiful, bright, colorful, amazing and touching so-called Pavloposad shawls. Light, feminine, saturated with bright colors and positive emotions, this is a real work of textile art and today has not lost its relevance, the motives of this folk craft are used by modern couturiers and fashion designers to create new fashion collections of clothes, shoes and accessories.

The history of the origin of the fishery

(Factory Lobzina, where scarves were first made)

They began to make these magnificent printed shawls and shawls at the end of the 18th century at the manufactory created by two wealthy peasants Labzin and Gryaznov, which later grew into a factory and significantly expanded its production. In those days, almost all women (of any age and class) wore headscarves, so the idea of opening such a production was very successful and profitable.

(Pattern "Indian cucumber")

From the very beginning, Indian cucumber patterns were depicted on the scarves, as well as plant motifs of oriental origin. By the middle of the 19th century, floral ornaments became widespread. The symbol of the Pavloposad shawl is the image of a luxurious rose, shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. The main style is a large pattern along the edges with a transition to a small one in the center, bright catchy flowers in the corners. The classic version of the traditional Pavloposad shawl was formed in the middle of the 19th century, the number of color shades can reach from 10 to 30. Patterns were arranged among themselves, ovals, stars, medallions, figures from flower garlands and ornamental stripes, intertwined with each other, created a unique and original composition, making these scarves a real work of weaving art.

The main technological features of manufacturing

(This is how it is printed, stuffed, drawing on a scarf)

Gradually, with the expansion of manufactory production, the direction of silk weaving appeared, scarves were made from woolen or semi-woolen materials. The main feature of traditional shawls is that drawings and patterns were applied in a printed way. They were distinguished by special originality and uniqueness. It was impossible to meet two identical scarves, each of them was beautiful and unique in its own way.

(The complex work of stuffing a pattern is often done by hand.)

All the splendor of color shades and the complexity of bizarre floral patterns and ornaments were conveyed using a very complex and labor-intensive printed technology for applying paint and patterns. This was achieved through the use of special carved wood forms, on which the ornament and pattern were skillfully carved, paint was transferred to the fabric with boards called “flower”, the contours of the future image were stuffed with boards called “manner”. On the "manners" the patterns were burned out, and then filled with lead.

(Printing a pattern on scarves)

At the end of the 19th century, in the process of making Pavloposad shawls, they began to use a new technique - screen printing, with the help of which the pattern was applied to the fabric not with wooden forms, but with nylon or nylon templates, the paint was applied by special printers. Thus, the appearance of scarves has undergone some changes: the patterns have become less intricate and detailed, strict forms of the ornamental outline have appeared.

(Fedot Vasilyevich Sychkov "Girl in a headscarf")

Initially, a pavloposadny scarf was an element of the national costume, it was worn both in everyday life and flaunted at festive celebrations, because scarves have long been an indispensable attribute of the costume of any Russian woman, especially a married one. Fanciful patterns and ornaments, bright flower and plant compositions perfectly reflect the depth of the soul of the Russian people, their color and bright originality.

Russian beauty in a Pavloposad shawl

The culture of this or that people is multicomponent. Cuisine, way of life, traditions and peculiarities in clothing - all this makes up a complete picture, making this or that nationality recognizable. It is the little things, nuances, features and individual details of the traditional costume that show the folk image to the whole world. Without exaggeration, Russian culture is considered one of the brightest and most diverse. The symbiosis of the industriousness of skilled artisans and the skill of artists gave rise to such a unique work of applied art as Pavlovo Posad shawls (shawls).

The history of the handkerchief

Today, every foreigner - a guest of the great and vast Russia, will consider it an honor to purchase unusual townsman scarves or shawls as a souvenir. But few people know that the history of such a unique and popular accessory all over the world goes back more than 200 years.

Pavloposadsky scarf can be found in many paintings

The origins date back to the middle of the nineteenth century. The city in Rus' Pavlovsky Posad, formerly called the Bogorodsk district, has long been considered a kind of center of talented and skilled artisans, and especially textile craftsmanship. In those distant times, it was in Pavlovsky Posad that there were countless textile workshops that have survived from even more ancient times. In the 17th century, Bogorodsk shawls were already widely known, thanks to the recognizable ornamental pattern of gilded threads.

And how could such beauty not become popular

Later, production was rapidly gaining momentum, and already township scarves were made from various fabrics, and the character of the pattern acquired more characteristic national features and a recognizable Russian character.

Manufactory production expanded, the direction of silk weaving appeared, scarves were also made from woolen and semi-woolen fabrics.

The history of Pavloposad shawls

Traditional shawls had one feature - an unusual and unique printed pattern. The patterns were so exclusive that it was impossible to find two identical scarves.

Drawing technique

The magnificence of a color, a complex and one-of-a-kind floral pattern or ornament is achieved by a complex application technology. Initially, the pattern was transferred to the material using carved wooden molds. Such form boards were called "flowers" and "manners". The board "flowers" was cut out of wood, with its help paints were applied to the fabric, but the outline of the ornament or pattern was filled with boards "manners".

"Manner" for applying patterns

The evolution also touched on the technology of stuffing prints, so already in the 70s of the last century, the pattern began to be applied to town scarves and shawls using screen printing and special nylon templates. More modern Pavloposad textile products have changed somewhat: the pattern has become less detailed, and the contours of the ornaments have acquired less intricate and somewhat strict outlines.

Industrial production did not play in favor of the beauty of the scarf

For some time, the technique of manual printing was used to apply the pattern, but due to the special laboriousness of the process, it did not become popular. Although it was during this period that real exclusive models worthy of the title of cultural value of Russia were created.

In the 90s of the last century, at a time when many industries were hit by a crisis, production not only did not come to naught. Pavloposad products have become even more colorful and original. The number of colors for one scarf or shawl reached 23. Today, the stencil technology has been preserved, a unique pattern is preliminarily developed by artists, after which stencils are made, then shawls and scarves are put into production.

Developing a pattern for a future scarf is not an easy task.

Creation of Pavloposad shawls

Pattern Features

From ancient times to the present day, town scarves and shawls are divided into two main types:

The first are scarves and shawls, which are made of thin translucent wool. Such Pavloposad products may have a silk base. The pattern on such a shawl or scarf was stuffed on a cream, black, dark cherry or scarlet color ground. The ornament was large flowers or bouquets, strictly selected stylistic patterns. As they say, the award has found its hero. In 1896, such town scarves received the highest state award, which gave the right to depict the National Emblem on a label or sign.
The second are Pavloposad products, which were made of dense wool. Such models, as a rule, differed from the first ones not only in fabrics, but also in ornament. The title pattern was borrowed from the Eastern people "cucumber", enclosed in floral patterns. The emphasis in such shawls was placed on the edges, and more precisely, the corners of the shawl, leaving a small middle figure in the central part.

In the post-war period, township shawls acquired greater brightness than models of the war period. The color of the Pavlovo Posad shawl is based on the contrasts of yellow, green, red and blue. Chiaroscuro treatments appear in the drawing, which give realism and tangibility to floral prints.

Such a principle of bright and unusual contrasts, national ornaments or floral patterns is so unique in its kind that it makes town scarves and shawls out of fashion trends.

Such beauty never goes out of fashion.

How to wear a pavlovo-posad scarf or shawl?

Modern fashion trends are a tribute and even admiration for the skill of our ancestors. Therefore, Pavloposad stoles, shawls and scarves are incredibly popular among fashionistas today. Such a bright and unusual accessory undoubtedly has its own character, history and soul, which gives the image original folk notes in an unusual modern setting, like a precious diamond.

The image of a Russian beauty will not be complete without such a scarf

There are some tips on how to wear a Pavlovo Posad accessory:

In the traditional way, as worn in Rus', putting on the head and tying under the chin. This method is suitable for beauties with clear and regular facial features.
It is very easy to tie a scarf in the traditional way.
Putting on the head, and wrapping the ends of the scarf around the neck. Looks perfect with a fur coat or sheepskin coat. You need to be careful with the image, consisting of a fur coat to the floor and a Pavloposad shawl, so as not to take on the appearance of the noblewoman Morozova.
You can put it on your head in the form of a bandana or a turban, and fasten the ends around your head. This way looks unusual and modern.
Pavloposadsky scarf in the form of a bandana
Simply throwing it over your shoulders, arbitrarily tying the ends of the scarf so that others can admire the beauty of the pattern.
Original skirt from Pavloposad shawl

There are a lot of ways how and with what to put on town scarves, stoles and shawls. You can safely let go of your imagination and experiment with such an unusual accessory, creating your own bright and original image.

A skillful combination or shawls will help to give the look not only a folk identity. Pavloposad products are not just fashion accessories, they have a soul, transforming the image of a woman not only externally, but also internally. Such bright painted accessories will never go out of fashion, forming a real Russian style outside of fashion trends.

Interesting information about Pavloposad shawls