Homemade metal sauna stoves: technique, drawings, photos. How to make a metal sauna stove Homemade wood-burning metal sauna stoves

Homemade stoves for a bath are always a unique thing, thanks to which the atmosphere in your steam room will always be cozy and pleasant at home. This is creativity in which you put your soul into, and do the work taking into account your personal requirements and wishes. You can decorate a homemade stove the way you want, in the photo you can see examples.

However, the appearance of the furnace is far from the most important thing to consider when getting started. The main thing is the fulfillment of its main function - heating the bath. Many people assemble stoves from different materials using different drawings, however, the most popular model is a wood-fired metal stove, which is also called a stove stove.

Homemade metal sauna stove: advantages

Metal sauna stove has a number of the following advantages:

• heats up quickly - you can take a bath already a couple of hours after the start of heating the stove and there is no need to heat for a long time;
• low cost of home-made production;
• depending on the amount of welding and how thick the metal was taken as the material for assembly, the life of the stove can vary from 5 to 25 years;
• if all the requirements are met when assembling the structure, the danger of explosion and smoke will be practically absent;
• the presence of soft steam that comes out when large brick ovens are heated. They are able to keep the heat inside for a long time after the firebox, which is transferred to the bath room by heating the air around.

However, it is worth considering that the arrangement of a large stove requires the installation of a capital foundation at the place of its installation, and this is associated with decent costs, however, a small heater does not have such installation requirements.

Despite the fact that the principle of operation of a metal stove-heater is quite simple, in finished form they are very expensive. That is why it will be much cheaper to assemble its simplest model on its own based on design drawings. If desired, the heater can be equipped with a tank for heating water.

Cons of metal stoves

It should be noted that in addition to the benefits there are a number of cons metal sauna stove applications:

Models of metal heaters: photos and drawings

To begin with, consider the project of a conventional metal heater along with a water tank. For its construction, you will need sheet metal with a thickness of about five millimeters. On the drawings, mark the dimensions of the furnace - 500 by 600 by 800 mm and a height of about 400 mm, respectively.

This oven can load up to 150 kg of fuel, thanks to which a steam room of approximately 12 square meters will be steamed at a temperature of 100 degrees.

In it, the walls can be single or double, equipped with an air gap. The liquid tank can be placed where you see fit.

Tip: Surround the stove with bricks to reduce the heat that is transferred in the form of infrared radiation from the stove to the steam room.

Sauna stove combined with kitchen

Another good version of a homemade metal sauna stove is a combined design with a kitchen stove. It is suitable for such types of premises where it is provided relaxation room after bath, where you can cook and eat something, or for a sauna room, which is attached to the summer kitchen or to a residential building next to the kitchen.

The firebox of the stove located in the kitchen should be connected to the ash pan on the stove. It should have a door on it, thanks to which it can be heated when the kitchen stove is not used for its intended purpose.

The steam room and the kitchen are separated from each other by a brick partition; also, in order to prevent burns from the bath side, it should be covered with a sheet of metal and a wooden partition. Then a flame tube is passed through the furnace.

A drawing of such a design should include the following elements:

Materials for a homemade sauna stove

In home-made production of a stove-heater, it is best to use black metal type which is at least 5 mm thick. Its service life is about five or more years. For the production of chambers or water tanks, it is best to take steel with a thickness of about 10 mm.

You can also use a square or rectangular section of metal, but for this you will need to make a welding seam and bend the metal, so for a home-made assembly it would be optimal to purchase a finished pipe or even a metal barrel, subject to the required proportions.

What is the oven made of?

Metal heater consists of elements such as:

The first element is needed for the combustion of fuel. For its construction, you will need a door for loading fuel and an air hole, in other words, a blower. Each time, ash should be removed from the firebox in time by means of an ash pan - such a grate.

From the firebox the heat gradually moves to stone bunker. It is needed to ensure heat exchange, while the stones are laid out on a grate, which serves as a connection between the two elements of the furnace. Bunkers can be open and closed. In order to be able to change stones in the bunker and pour water into it, a special door should be installed on the side.

And the last element of the design is the water tank. It can be poured through the top, and if there is a need to ensure that warm water is drained, a tap can be welded to it at the bottom. It is also equipped with a chimney so that combustion products can be quickly removed.

Tools and materials for work

So, if we take as a basis a stove-heater with diameters of about 700 mm and a height of 1500 mm upwards, then you need to cook the following materials for its construction:

• sheet of steel with a thickness of 10 mm;
• metal pipe with a length of 1600 mm and a wall thickness of about 10 mm;
• chimney pipe with diameters from 100 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm;
• metal rod 10 mm thick;
• finished grate;
• loops (8 pcs.);
• hecks (3 pcs.);
• faucet with valve.

Also prepare the following toolkit:

• Bulgarian;
• apparatus for welding;
• metal scissors;
• measuring tool.

Assembling a homemade stove

Do-it-yourself metal stove assembly includes the following steps:

Installation of a stove-heater for a bath in the room

Here is our homemade stove-heater and ready. However, for it to work, it must be installed. During the process of assembling the structure in place consider these rules:

So, we told what constitutes an independent construction of a furnace for a metal bath. Of course, this extremely difficult job very difficult for a beginner. But if you take into account all the recommendations and tips, you can get a great job, after which you can invite your friends to visit for a cozy home steam room.

Examples of stoves in the bath

The modern market for heating equipment offers many models of various designs and different prices. However, many owners of private housing constructions prefer to build a sauna stove on their own. Homemade sauna stoves are most often made of steel (sheet or pipe) or brick. Both options have certain advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the type of heating unit, the requirements for the furnace and how much space can be allocated for it are taken into account.

Features of brick sauna stoves

If you decide to build a brick oven in the bath, then you should take into account the following factors:

• It is rather difficult to make a brick heating installation; masonry work requires certain knowledge, skills and accuracy. A carelessly folded oven will not last long.
• Such a heat generator takes up quite a lot of space in the bath room.
• Due to the large mass of the structure, a deep foundation is required.
• It takes up to 5 hours to enter the operating mode of a brick oven. This period depends on the season.

The positive aspects of brick heat generators:

• In bath rooms with such stoves, heat after kindling lasts up to 9 hours.
• Brick stoves-heaters are able to heat large areas.
• The fire safety of brick ovens is much higher compared to metal ones.

The device of a brick heat generator for a bath

The foundation of a home-made bath stove is made even before the walls of the bath itself are erected.

The procedure for constructing the foundation for a brick stove-heater:

• For the foundation, a pit is made with a depth of approximately 700 mm.
• The pit is filled in layers. First, 150 mm of watered and carefully compacted sand are laid. This is followed by layers of broken bricks (200 mm) and crushed stone (100 mm).
• In case of soil movement, a gap of 100 mm is left between the wall of the pit and the formwork.
• Inside the formwork, a reinforcement frame is laid.
• Concrete mixture is poured into the formwork.

Attention! The foundation can be below the ground level by no more than 150 mm.

• After the formwork is removed, a waterproofing layer is applied to the concrete. The free space between the soil and concrete is covered with gravel.
• A layer of roofing material is laid on top of the finished foundation, and then a row of bricks and again a layer of roofing material.

The main stages of laying the furnace:

• When laying bricks in an array of furnaces, firebox and heater doors are mounted. Masonry starts from the door.
• Above the furnace compartment, a grate for the heater is installed. On each side, a gap of 5 mm is left for the possibility of thermal expansion.
• A water tank is installed above the stove.

In the manufacture of homemade sauna stoves, it is necessary to constantly use horizontal and vertical levels.

Features of metal bath stoves

Compared to brick bath heating systems, metal heat generators have certain advantages:

• Their device is simpler, therefore it is easier to make them yourself.
• Requires less space in the bath room.
• A small mass of metal structures allows in this case to do without a deep foundation. This makes it possible to save time and money.
• The warm-up time is much shorter.

However, there are several parameters by which metal furnaces lose to brick installations:

• The thin walls of metal heat generators are the reason for the rapid cooling of furnaces. Therefore, while using the bath in the firebox, it is necessary to constantly maintain the fire.
• The walls of metal structures have a high temperature, which increases the risk of burns.
• A low degree of fire safety requires additional protection of the ceiling and walls from high temperatures.

Homemade metal stoves for a bath

Metal heaters can be made from sheet steel or pipes.

The main stages in the manufacture of a stove for a bath from a pipe:

• To make such a furnace, you will need two pieces of pipe. One 0.9 m long - for a heater with a firebox, the second, for a hot water tank - 0.6 m.
• At the bottom of the first pipe, a hole is cut out for a blower measuring 60x200 mm. A steel plate about 12 mm thick with holes is welded over the blower, which acts as a grate. To install it, a groove is cut in the pipe.
• Next, cut out a niche for the firebox 300x250 mm. A door with a latch and canopies is mounted to it.
• Above the furnace, at a height of 400 mm above the grate, a steel bar grate is welded to place the stones. Specially selected rounded stones are laid out on the grate.
• To the second section of the pipe, which will serve as a water tank, an 8 mm thick bottom with a hole for the chimney is welded at the bottom. The chimney of the furnace will pass through a tank of water, heating it.

Attention! The chimney is welded tightly to prevent water from flowing from the tank into the furnace space.

• The water tank is mounted on the bottom of the oven. Both parts of the installation are welded.
• The top of the tank is left open to fill with water.
• A water tap is welded to the bottom of the tank.
• To increase fire safety and improve thermal performance, it is recommended to overlay a stove for a bath from a pipe with a brick.
• The section of the chimney between the stove and the ceiling is plastered and treated with lime mortar.

Attention! The manufacture of a home-made stove for a bath of a similar design is within the power of those who have welding skills. If such a skill is not available, then it is advisable to contact the services of a professional welder in order to avoid emergency situations during the operation of the furnace.

There are a lot of metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in welding metal, you can make the furnace yourself, according to your size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

• 1 Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference
• 2 Homemade stoves for the Russian bath
  • 2.1 Kamenka: what size and where
  • 2.2 Drawings of homemade bath metal stoves
• 3 How to make a sauna stove
  • 3.1 Drawings and diagrams

Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference

There is a significant difference between the modes of soaring in a bath and a sauna. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get burned, and the broom will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept within 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity "catch up" more - 50-60%.

One of the options for a welded sauna stove

To meet these different challenges, different approaches to building a furnace are required. The sauna requires the largest area of ​​contact between the body of the furnace and the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But in the sauna you don’t need much - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. Just can't take it anymore.

In the Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and it has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring in the body, lightness and a surge of strength are felt. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is at least 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are “packed” inside the furnace - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

Here the heater is located inside and a tank is attached on top

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

What else should be kept in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to recycle. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and it is difficult to be nearby. The problem is solved in two ways:

Another thing to talk about is seams. In home-made metal furnaces (in factory ones, in principle, too), burnout often begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is circumvented with the help of bent structures. In the upper part, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a stove for a bath with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that the bath is insulated normally). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but on condition that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that stones of different breeds have different densities, and, consequently, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - look at the design of the furnace.

Kamenka can be of different shapes and sizes

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. As a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about where in the firebox it is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the roof of the furnace will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and that water must somehow get there. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can easily reach the farthest edge with your hand. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Usually, a tube or a system of tubes is inserted, which diverge over the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

Metal stove for a bath with a closed heater

To activate combustion, an additional air duct is connected, laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffeners (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend when heated.

The following scheme of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to the top of the firebox. These are the so-called furnaces with afterburning gases. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. In the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace, air is supplied from under the grates with the help of air ducts. This simple, it seems, the device solves two problems at once. Firstly, it cools the back wall, reducing the likelihood of it burning through. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry firewood), much less fuel is required. Many long-burning stoves are built on this principle, but it has recently been used in sauna stoves.

Furnace with secondary air supply

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. Here the dimensions are not indicated, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of various elements.

Volumetric model of a home-made stove-heater made of metal

In this case, the volume of the furnace is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it can rest against the ceiling beam - you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So think about the location of the pipe.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is “heavy”, and they take the tank to the washing compartment, and heat the water in it by building a heat exchanger into the furnace and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next scheme is a furnace in a metal bath with a water tank.

Drawing of a stove for a bath with a water tank

The design is competent - with the help of a “spark arrester”, the path of flue gases is longer, it stays in the furnace longer, it heats the walls better. If you do not want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank, which is located at the back of the oven. The chimney is moved back, and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the exit from the tank will not be large for sure.

Variant of a small stove with a large tank

Interestingly arranged stone. It is not very large, but for small and medium steam rooms its volume is enough. It closes with a lid, which, on the one hand, is not very convenient: closing the lid after water has been supplied to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

Furnace sections and dimensions

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly “catch up” with the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow over the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

Approximately the same function is performed by the casing-convector. This is the casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the furnace. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, at the same time cooling the walls. Then it rises up, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

How the convection hood works

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in the sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow over the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a firebox of a normal size, in which large logs are placed. In the upper part, above the upper part of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Schemes of metal sauna stoves

Installing a tank for heating water in the steam room of a sauna is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and it's easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can make a lid on it and such an oven can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry steaming, with an open one - to get more steam.

Kamenka inside the building

Probably, any owner of individual suburban housing, if he does not yet have his own bathhouse on the site, then, most likely, is hatching plans for its construction and equipment. The bathing tradition in Russia is very ancient and enduring, and no modern devices and fixtures in the form of bathtubs, jacuzzi, “fancy” showers, electric heaters or steam generators can replace the real heat from a heated stove and a birch broom.

The stove is one of the most important attributes of a Russian bath or a real sauna. The required atmosphere and the required temperature both in the steam room and in the washing room directly depend on its effective operation. Currently, there are many models on sale that are specially designed for such conditions. However, many home craftsmen prefer to make a sauna stove with their own hands. This matter, although quite complicated and requiring good skills in construction or welding, is still quite feasible.

Types of sauna stoves

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the main existing varieties of bath stoves so that you can opt for one of them.

1. By material manufacturing

• For a long time, burnt bricks have been the main material for sauna stoves. This tradition has not become a thing of the past even today - many people prefer the brick oven to all others, although, of course, its construction is much more difficult than installing a ready-made one. But on the other hand, the heat in it remains much longer, and it creates a very special atmosphere in the bath.

With its construction, certain difficulties may arise. So, for a brick structure, a foundation is required that is not connected with the foundation of the bath itself. In addition, the dimensions of the building itself do not always allow placing such a furnace in it, although, of course, there are projects of very small masonry.

Another difficulty is that the construction of such a furnace requires a certain amount of experience so that it does not become a source of a potential threat to human life and health. Often the desire to have a stone stove makes the owners of the bath turn to the masters. However, you can try to fold it yourself.

• Metal bath stoves are very popular. Although they are some departure from tradition, they have a number of advantages:

- Its installation does not take a long time and does not require a lot of space.

- There are a lot of ready-made models on sale, so it is possible to choose the most optimal option for a specific bath.

- It is easier to make such a furnace on your own if you have experience with electric welding.

- For the manufacture of a metal furnace, even seemingly recycled materials are often used - pipe cuttings, old disks from trucks, obsolete gas cylinders, old barrels, etc.

In the bath, as a rule, only steel stoves are installed - cast iron is unacceptable in these conditions. Yes, it has a higher heat capacity and retains the desired temperature longer, but its fragility and instability to sudden thermal changes make it impossible, for example, to splash cold water on a hot stove - cracks may appear.

Additional information about stoves from the site:

The main disadvantage of steel stoves is their rather quick cooling after the end of the furnace, especially if an insufficiently thick metal sheet was used for manufacturing. However, a massive heater can hold heat for quite a long time.

• To reconcile supporters of brick and steel sauna stoves can be the technology of lining a metal case with a brick.

In this case, a massive foundation is not required, the tightness of the masonry joints is also, that is, the process of building walls is quite simple.

Combined option - a metal stove lined with bricks

In addition to good heat accumulation, brick cladding will protect against direct exposure to hard infrared radiation from hot metal surfaces. And yet - it can be a good interior addition to the bath, hiding the often not very pretty look of a steel stove.

2. According to the energy carrier used

The vast majority of sauna stoves are designed to fire them. There are, of course, models with the use of gas and electricity. Some craftsmen adapt liquid fuel units (for example, diesel fuel) for this purpose, taking the furnace part with the diesel fuel supply system outside.

However, we can emphasize this again, no other energy sources, except for natural, well-dried firewood, will create in the steam room that health-improving microclimate, for which, in principle, the bath is most often built.

3. According to the location of the firebox

Both brick and metal bath stoves can have different layouts:

In one version, the entire furnace is located in the steam room, that is, it has to be fired directly from here. This design is certainly cheaper, much easier to manufacture and install, but there are a number of serious drawbacks. So, for example, you can’t create a supply of firewood in a steam room - they simply become saturated with moisture. Thus, if necessary, to maintain the fire, you will have to run out after them to another room or to the street. In addition, a steam room is usually not such a voluminous room, and therefore there is a high risk of getting an accidental burn from touching a red-hot furnace door.

From the point of view of convenience and safety of use, stoves win, in which the door of the combustion chamber is placed in the dressing room, and in the steam room itself there is a heater and, possibly, a tank for heating water. In such a stove, you can keep the fire going without disturbing anyone, and the overall level of safety increases in the steam room.

4. According to the method of heating the heater

Finally, sauna stoves differ in the way the stones are heated.

• Currently, constant heating stoves are most often used. In their design, the stones do not have direct contact with the outgoing combustion products - they are placed either in a metal container welded to the stove body, or in special lattice bodies located on the walls or even on the chimney. This arrangement of the furnace is more characteristic of the Finnish sauna. The heating temperature of the stones reaches 300 - 400 degrees. Usually, stones of a fairly small fraction are used, like coarse gravel. They are not covered with soot, as they are isolated from combustion products.

The convenience of such a stove is that the process of heating and, directly, taking bath procedures are not spaced apart in time - you can maintain the fire and, accordingly, the temperature in the steam room for as long as necessary.

• Bath furnaces of periodic heating are arranged somewhat differently. Their design implies the removal of hot gases directly through the heater, with their subsequent exit into the chimney. At the same time, stones are heated to extremely high temperatures - up to 1000 degrees. However, after heating the stove, they must wait for the fuel to completely burn out and carbon monoxide to escape - only after that you can proceed to washing. In order not to cool quickly and not give off heavy wet steam, it is usually covered with either a lid or a hinged door.

According to this scheme usually formed classical Russian bath stoves - a heated bath was enough for all family members. When water hits such strongly heated stones, it instantly turns into steam. The main condition is that they should be massive, carefully selected, rounded, of a pronounced dark gray color, and their total mass should be at least 50 kilograms. From time to time, the heater is taken apart to clean the stones from the accumulated soot and replace the collapsed ones.

Schemes of such simple periodic ovens will be discussed below.

• It should be noted that there are models of stoves that combine the advantages of both devices. In them, the heater is divided into two areas - unventilated, placed in a special channel through which the combustion products pass, and open.

In such a furnace, there are two heaters - an external ventilated and an internal one, which receives heat from combustion products.

Such stoves are quite complex in design, but they perfectly accumulate heat, and give dry steam, and, if necessary, firewood can be thrown right in the process of washing.

The stove is the heart of the bath. In the absence of the proper skills, it is not easy to make it yourself. Think about what is more important: savings, most often imaginary, or the feeling of comfort that accompanies you during the arrangement of the bath and its use.

Those who prefer effective solutions should pay attention to the options for ready-made sauna stoves. Among them you will find devices that meet all the listed quality criteria, and at the same time have an affordable price.

Thus, among the leaders of the furnace market, heating installations from the Dobrostal Plant company, the winner of the competition “100 Best Goods of Russia”, can be singled out. In the assortment offered by her, such concise models of furnaces as:

• "Heat-Extra 400";
• "Heat-Lux 20".

The body material of the devices is carbon steel, one of the strongest and most heat-resistant materials. The ergonomic design of these wood-burning stoves allows them to be used not only as a heating unit, but also as a good interior solution.

The Zhara-Extra 400 model is designed for heating a steam room from 4 to 12 m 3 in size. The thickness of the roof and the weight of the furnace can also vary, based on your requirements.

Furnaces of the Zhara Lux series offer a wider range of models, with the ability to choose a device for heating a steam room area from 4 to 30 m 3.

The structures under consideration are equipped with a chimney-coil, which allows:

• make traction more uniform;
• save fuel.

By the way, the chimney can be disassembled for cleaning at any time.

The device package includes:

• grate;
• decorative elements;
• cast iron door
• closed heater with funnel for water supply;
• scoop;
• detailed installation guide.

Furnaces of the "Heat" series are able to satisfy the needs of an avid lover of a steam room, however, if the bath is not a hobby for you, but a real passion, we advise you to pay attention to the "Augusta Profi" model, equipped with a panoramic glass door. The incomparable comfort of using this device will turn all parts of the bathing procedure into a pleasure.

The model in question is equipped with:

• closed-type heater;
• steam generation system.

Using the built-in system, you will be able to choose the “mode” for your steam room yourself:

• traditional Russian bathhouse;
• Finnish sauna for real Vikings;
• hammam for lovers of oriental pleasures.

The establishment of convection in the "Augusta Profi" is carried out by adjusting special dampers.

The desired model can also be purchased in simplified model variations "Standard", "Stone", however, it is the "Profi" version that is the most refined, powerful and multifunctional.

The listed designs represent only a small fraction of the Dobrostal Plant model range. We advise you to study it, and find the perfect heart for your steam room.

Prices for fireplaces and stoves

Fireplaces and stoves

How to make a metal stove for a bath yourself

There are countless options for metal bath stoves, and, by and large, anyone can come up with their own, relying on some basic models. As an example, we can cite several very simple stoves, the manufacture of which does not require any special knowledge and skills.

Periodic heating stove for a small family steam room

This is probably one h the simplest options. To make such a furnace, you need a metal sheet with a thickness of about 5 mm (steel St 3). In this case, it makes no sense to make a stove from a thinner sheet - it will burn out very quickly, and it will not retain heat efficiently.

• The dimensions of the stove are small - only 900 mm long, 800 - height with legs, and width along the front - 600 mm. It can be placed even in a very small steam room.
• For the chimney pipe, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of 115 mm. Its length can be different - some prefer a short pipe with a flange for connecting the chimney, others weld in a long enough length that you can put on a hot water tank.
• In order for all seams to be durable, it is better to make them on a metal corner with a shelf of 30 × 30 × 3 mm. The same profile will also be needed for shelves and brackets for internal lattice partitions.
• In height, the space of the stove is divided into three unequal compartments. The lower, narrowest one is an ash pan (1) with a blower door. The size of this door is usually small, 2-2.5 times smaller than the furnace opening.
• Between the ash pan and the firebox (3), cast-iron grates are installed on brackets from the corner.

• If they could not be found, then you will have to weld a lattice of parallel bars with a diameter of at least 10 — 12 mm. The distance between the bars is kept the same - about 10 mm.
• The upper compartment is a heater through which combustion products are removed during heating of the stove (5). Gases pass freely through the grate (4), heat the stones and are discharged into the chimney (6).
• The doors of the combustion chamber and the blower-ashpit are broadcast on welded hinges and are necessarily equipped with latch valves.
• The rear part of the heater is welded by one third with a metal sheet (300 × 600 mm), in the center of which a hole is cut, where the chimney pipe is welded, which goes down by 100 - 120 mm.
• The diagram does not show the lid that is used to cover the heater during the heating of the sauna stove. It is easy to make it from thin metal (0.8 - 1.0 mm) in such a way that it completely covers the heater and slightly lies down on the body walls. This cover will not allow the stones to cool quickly, and in process the pre-heater of the bath will prevent the direct exit of combustion products into the room, directing them into the chimney pipe. Of course, good traction must be provided for this.

Immediately before the start of bath procedures, this cover is removed and the heater remains in the open position. However, sometimes they also provide a hinged hatch, which is opened when it is necessary to give steam, and the lid is constantly in place, keeping the heat of the stones longer.

• When the stove is fully welded, a thorough cleaning and check of the seams, removal of burrs and metal irregularities is carried out. It is recommended to cover the outside of the structure with a heat-resistant varnish specially designed for fireplaces and stoves.

Stones are laid in the compartment intended for them later, after the stove is installed in place in the bath and connected to the chimney. This will be discussed a little later.

The heat from such a stove after heating it should be enough for a full-fledged bath procedure for 2 - 3 people.

Periodically heated metal stove with additional brick walls

Another version of the open type stove, which, however, is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, but its ability to accumulate heat is much higher.

“Double” technology is already being used here - a metal case and internal brickwork. In this case, steel is not needed too thick - sheets of 1.5 - 2.0 mm are enough. For masonry, heat-resistant fireclay bricks are used, and as a mortar, it is best to purchase a ready-made dry mortar specially designed for stoves and fireplaces and knead it in accordance with the preparation instructions.

• To begin with, a base is being prepared with legs welded to it with heel pads so that the design of the furnace is stable.
• Then, on this basis, the first continuous row of bricks is laid out. All other rows are made in a "half-brick" in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe firebox, and in a "quarter" - in the area of ​​​​chimney channels.
• After the camera is laid out ash pan-blower(1), a cast-iron grate is installed between it and the firebox (2). To leave openings for the blower and the loading window during masonry, it is fashionable to use jumpers from a metal corner 20 × 20, but only so as not to disturb the evenness of the inter-row seams.
• Above the combustion chamber, a grate of metal rods (Ø 12 mm) is installed, on which stones will subsequently be laid.
• A window (5) is left on the left or right side of the masonry at the level of the heater, which will serve to load the stones, for their regular inspection and cleaning, and in the process of bathing procedures - for steam generation - water from the ladle will splash into it.
• The sinuous chimney channel contributes to the most complete heating of the entire furnace structure and complete afterburning of all combustion products. In the back of this channel, at the level of turning it up, an inspection window is left, where a valve will then be mounted to maximize heat retention after the furnace has been fired.
• The upper two rows of bricks are made solid, only with a window for the exit of combustion products - in this place the chimney pipe will then be welded.
• When the brickwork is finished, and the mortar has set well enough, it is possible to sequentially weld the walls of the metal case to the base, which in this case plays the role of a kind of “case”. To facilitate this task, and at the same time to achieve tightness of the welds, a corner of 20 × 20 mm can be put on top of the joints.
• When marking the workpiece for the front wall, openings for the ash pan and the loading window of the combustion chamber are immediately outlined and cut out. After the front wall is in place, hinges are welded on which the doors of both chambers with locking devices are hung. The door leafs themselves should be 10–15 mm wider in each direction than the recessed windows in order to ensure tight closing. It would be useful to install an asbestos seal around the perimeter or even over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inner surface of the firebox door.

• During the installation of the side wall, from the side of the steam window left in the masonry, a opening and a metal door with a seal is installed. It is better to make it fold down and equip it with a “cold” handle so that you can open it during washing to give steam.
• The stove cover is welded last with a pre-cut hole for the chimney pipe. Then a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.
• The stove will be loaded with stones after it is installed in the bathhouse at the prepared place.

Constant heating stoves with an open heater

It is even easier to build such stoves from a metal sheet or other available materials.

The figure shows an easy-to-manufacture stove made from trimming a metal thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 325 mm.

The pipe cavity itself is divided into two compartments by a grate. The upper, main one, serves as a firebox, the lower one serves as an ashpit-blower. Both compartments have their own doors, respectively, for laying firewood and providing air supply and cleaning.

Closer to the far, completely muffled end of the pipe, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.

A metal box is welded on top of the cylindrical body, which will be filled with stones. In order to ensure maximum heating of the stones, it is possible to make the chimney in this area not straight, but with a curved elbow - the contact area of ​​the hot pipe with the heater will increase significantly.

It will not be difficult to make a similar stove in the form of a parallelepiped, using metal sheets as blanks.

Very often, these stoves are equipped with hot water tanks. In the photo of the stove from the pipe, it is placed on the back plug, which is also the wall of the water tank.

In the manufacture of rectangular structures, there are much more options - tanks are placed on either side, on top, or even make a semblance of a “water jacket” from several sides, with a tie-in of cold and hot water supply pipes.

Another convenient option for solving the issue of heating water can be the installation of a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe.

Such water heaters can be made independently, but it is also possible to purchase a finished factory product that has a ton of a certain standard diameter. All that remains is to embed this tank into the vertical part of the chimney above the stove and connect the water supply and withdrawal pipes.

Such tanks can themselves have sufficient volume, or serve only as a heat exchanger and be connected to the main water tank.

Video: an interesting simple design of a metal stove for a bath

Preparing the site for installing the stove

Making your own stove for a bath is only half the battle. It is necessary to carefully prepare a place for its installation directly in the room.

Even just a metal stove is a fairly massive structure, especially if you add to its own weight the weight of the stone laying and the weight of the filled hot water tank. Thus, it is necessary to prepare the base - a kind of podium on which it will be installed. It is best to provide your own foundation for it.

• To do this, a small pit (up to 500 mm deep) comes off in a selected place.
• A sand layer up to 100 mm is laid on the bottom, then, after tamping, another 200 mm gravel and crushed stone backfill.
• A layer of cut-off waterproofing is laid - usually roofing material is used for this.
• Then a concrete solution is poured to the ground level with a filling of sand and fine gravel.

• After this site has completely solidified (at least 3 weeks), a layer of roofing material is laid on top of it, and then a continuous laying of baked bricks is performed
• The masonry is carried out either to the level of the "clean" floor of the bath, or even a little, 100 - 150 mm higher, thus constructing a raised podium for installing the stove.

It is impossible to put the oven on a concrete base - for all its seeming solidity and strength, it will certainly begin to crack and crumble in conditions of high humidity and high temperatures.

From walls, especially wooden ones, the stove should be located at a distance of at least 200 mm. The walls must be sheathed with heat-resistant material - stainless steel sheet or "Isover" - foil thermal insulator based on harmless basalt mineral wool.

Izover is an excellent material for thermal insulation of bath walls at the installation site of the stove.

Very often, metal stoves are “dressed” in brickwork. This gives a number of advantages - there is less risk of getting burned on hot walls, plus brickwork will be another fairly capacious heat accumulator.

You can learn more about this process from. Here are just a few important notes:

• The distance from metal walls to brickwork is recommended to be kept at 100 mm. This is necessary for normal air circulation - a powerful convection flow will be created, contributing to uniform and rapid heating of the steam room. For the same purpose, special windows must be provided below the masonry. The metal walls of the stove, lined with bricks on the outside without a gap, close, due to a violation of normal heat transfer, will burn out very quickly.

• For masonry, only natural clay oven mortar or special building mixtures designed specifically for such purposes, with pronounced moisture and moisture properties, can be used. thermal stability.
• The brick lining of the stove must be thought out in advance - this is taken into account when pouring the foundation and laying out the brick podium.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Stone laying

The efficiency of a home-made bath stove will also largely depend on the stones - the correctness of their selection and laying out in the heater.

Even a small stove requires no less than a 50-kilogram stack, but it’s still better to focus on 80 for a family bath. — 100 kg.

It is better to choose cobblestones with a rounded shape, even gray color, without surface flaws (cracks or breaks). It is desirable that the stones be of various sizes - from 50 to 150 mm.

Granite for sauna stove absolutely useless. Firstly, its structure is unstable to frequent processes of strong heating with simultaneous exposure to steam - destruction will begin very quickly. Secondly, granite always contains mica inclusions, and when heated, they are capable of emitting quite toxic fumes.

Jadeite is one of the best options for a heater. In addition to its natural beauty, it is also credited with medicinal properties.

The best materials, in addition to the usual natural cobblestone, are talc chloride, basalt or jadeite. Such stones of various sizes can be purchased at specialized stores.

It is very important to lay the stones correctly. The layout begins in such a way that the largest, most massive of them are at the bottom. They will not prevent the passage of heat to those located above and will create a powerful supply of heat. Then stones of medium size are laid out, and only at the very top - small in size.

This order will provide the upper layer of stones with heating to a temperature of 300 - 400 º - exactly what is needed for dry steam. When water hits well-heated stones, evaporation occurs literally instantly and is accompanied by a characteristic crack.

If the stones are flattened, then when laying them, their spatial orientation must also be taken into account. With their long side, they should be located along the main heat flow, otherwise a kind of “locking” will occur when the lower stones overheat and the upper ones do not reach the required temperature regime.

Neglecting the rules for laying stones will drastically reduce the overall healing effect of the bath. The steam will begin to “get heavier” very quickly, and although, perhaps, the overall temperature in the steam room will not decrease significantly, staying in it will do more harm than good - there is simply nothing to breathe in a waterlogged room.

Video: how to properly lay stones in a sauna stove

Prices for various types of stones for furnaces

Stones for stoves

So, a do-it-yourself sauna stove is a completely feasible task, if all technological nuances are taken into account during manufacture, and the established safety requirements are observed during installation. But a self-made stove will not only help save a fairly significant amount, but will also become the pride of the owner when it becomes possible to invite his friends to the bath.

Currently, there are many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove in a bath with your own hands. In this article, we will describe in detail, attaching appropriate photos, how to do this, having our own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in the bath and sauna are significantly different from each other. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity as well, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles under such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath is characterized by a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If a sauna is being equipped, then it will be necessary to observe the maximum contact area of ​​​​the furnace body with air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, is able to heat the stones up to 200-250 ºС. It allows you to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you need to achieve only 15% humidity.

In the Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached, and a lot of steam is produced. At the same time, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. "Dry" steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values ​​​​of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, the stones are placed in a furnace, that is, in a closed heater.

Do-it-yourself stoves for a Russian bath

The most important thing when making do-it-yourself metal sauna stoves according to the drawings is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºС with heated metal walls (read: “Drawings of a metal sauna stove - we build a stove with our own hands”). You will definitely have to reheat, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, in which it is quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

• Make a furnace lining. The process consists in lining the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heater warms up most of all. Therefore, you should immediately design the furnace so that it is of increased size, because most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that hot smoke is produced as a result, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on a pipe. A little more difficult is to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install brick screen around the iron stove for the bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best because of the possibility of temperature control, however, it is less practical, since the back wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a rather thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A home-made iron stove in the bath quite often begins to burn out precisely from low-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent structure. On top of the oven, they try to minimize the number of seams.

When making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, it will be practically impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains to make extremely high-quality seams.

What is the size of the stove and where is it better to put it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of the insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, the more of them, the easier it is to generate the required amount of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy a different volume. It was determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30×40×30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, you will need to choose the individual volume of the heater, based on the size of the stove. In order to avoid mistakes, it is better to build on the finished drawings. When using the experimental approach, it should be taken into account that the volume of the furnace should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before you build a stove in a bath, you should calculate the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice, it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be serviced, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that it is possible to easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, divorced inside the container, which would reach all the stones. From the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After diluting the pipes, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the pipes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel sauna stoves

Consider the version of the furnace, which will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. Steel sheets 3 mm thick are used for its construction.

To start the combustion process, the design provides for an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are attached to the sides at the top of the firebox.

Consider another scheme by which you can make metal bath stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called furnaces with afterburning gases. On the back wall, a steel platinum is welded to it. Air enters the furnace from under the grate, and is supplied through the air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and also the air is already warmed up to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume are combustible.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the furnace and heating of the stones to higher rates. If at the same time dry firewood is used as fuel, then they will be required much less. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently been used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. Having studied her drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves the construction of a furnace with a volume of 30% more than the heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties in installing it - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before you make a stove for a bath, you should decide whether you need a steam tank for heating water. Some adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts claim that heavy steam is produced in this way, so they advise installing a tank in the washing room, and heating the water is done by means of a heat exchanger built into the furnace, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now consider the scheme of a metal furnace with a water tank. The design is considered quite well-designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby warming up the walls of the firebox better. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank at the back of the furnace. The chimney is shifted back, passing through the tank. Due to the large height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite enough for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to the location, it can be difficult to close it after water has been supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of the furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired indicators as quickly as possible and keep it at that level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, blowing the walls, accelerate the heating.

For these purposes, the casing-convector is also intended. The gap between it and the furnace wall should be 1.5-2 cm. Air is sucked through the gap, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make the stove in the bath with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing is made of thin, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, ventilation holes can be made in the casing. In this case, the proportion of air rising along the walls will be directed to the heater, blowing over the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is great for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal stove for the bath, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient for laying large logs. On top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size can be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bath as correct as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the level of humidity in the sauna, which in extreme temperatures can lead to burns.

There is another option - to install a heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, while such an oven can have two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the steaming process is dry, and with a closed lid - to generate a larger volume of steam.

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

To date, there are many designs of metal stoves: wood, electric and gas. Wood-burning appliances require a lot of fuel, careful maintenance, but they give a "live" fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas ovens are the most modern and reliable, they have thermostats for power control and protective devices that are triggered when the gas is attenuated.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal stoves for a bath

Metal stoves for baths have significant advantages over other heating structures:

• The small dimensions and mobility of the metal stove make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces are:

1. Rapid cooling associated with the oven's inability to retain heat. Continuous fuel combustion is required.

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

For the manufacture of the stove, metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm is used, with a smaller value, the device will not last more than 5-7 years. Reputable stove manufacturers offer products in 10mm steel for fireboxes and slightly thinner for water tanks and stone bins.

The design of the stove-heater made of metal for a bath

A metal sauna stove consists of three main parts, such as a fuel combustion chamber, a stone hopper, and a water heating tank.

• The combustion chamber. Here is the process of burning firewood. To control it, the doors of the firebox and blower are used. The latter serves to supply air to the furnace. Removal of combustion products from the furnace is carried out through an ash pan - a metal grate. From the firebox, the heat from burning firewood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of a metal stove for a bath is clear to you, we proceed to the process of its manufacture.

Making a stove-heater for a bath from a metal pipe

We will make the stove from a pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, its height will be 1600 mm. For work, we need: a steel sheet with dimensions of 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a metal pipe 1600 mm long with a wall thickness of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, a metal rod t. 10 mm, a cast-iron grate (from the store), door hinges - 8 pcs, hecks - 3 pcs, a drain valve for the tank, a tape measure, a building level, a grinder, metal scissors, a welding machine.

1. We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, the other is 0.7 m.

The procedure for installing a metal stove in a bath

Measures for the installation of a bath stove begin at the stage of erection of the entire building - a foundation is laid for installing the device with a slight deepening. It is laid with two rows of bricks, and a stove is placed on it.

• The minimum distance between the wall and the oven is assumed to be at least 1 m. In addition, an additional protection device is recommended in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with foil with a layer of insulation. This will prevent overheating of the wooden wall and its ignition.

After the installation of the furnace is completed, it can be lined with bricks on clay mortar. This will improve the appearance of the apparatus and save people from the possibility of burns. The stove with lining can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above will convince you that making a metal stove for a bath is not so difficult. If you have the skills of metal cutting and welding, you can make a home-made furnace using a simple drawing, which will be no worse than a purchased one.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

Homemade metal stoves for baths have always competed with their brick counterparts. This is due to the rapid heating and simple installation of such units. With instructions for making

We assemble a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

A lot of do-it-yourself metal sauna stove designs have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully disclosed and is still relevant. With your own hands, metal bath stoves can be made from improvised metal materials, you only need desire and a little time.

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath

After reviewing this article and observing the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great steam bath, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. Let's talk about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and device should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) in order to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and hot water

What do you need to work?

If a metal stove for a bath is being built with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determining the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything you need.

Tool

• Welding machine.
• Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
• Bulgarian.

Material metal

If a homemade stove for a bath is made from a pipe, you will need:

• Wheel disks - 4 pcs.
• Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
• Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
• Armature iron with a diameter of 8-10 mm or a rod.

Building material

• Brick - 300-350 pcs.
• Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
• Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cu.

Please note: thrust is created by rarefaction, i.e. rarefied cold air draws warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends to rise under the action of the Archimedean force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - naturally, the draft is less, in winter it is the other way around. The thrust also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of the heater stove

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it creates smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal bath stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, draft, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - famous Roman baths.

Works on the construction of the furnace

So, let's start building a metal bath stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the foundation on which it is planned to install the structure. Despite the fact that the iron stove for a bath from a pipe weighs a little, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We build the foundation

• For the foundation for the furnace, we knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
• We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across squares 20x20 cm. We connect the fittings at the junctions with each other with a knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground, for this we drive it into the ground along the edges of the lattice 4 pieces of rebar and tie a grate to them on weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure that the grate is in the middle.
• After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, we open all the doors and windows in the bath for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the flooded foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form during drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

An iron furnace is assembled like this:

• Take the back rim from the wheel, we weld all the holes, except for the one in the middle.
• We take the next rim, cut off the convex top, insert the first rim into the second and weld. There should be no holes and cracks, the device must be airtight, after welding we beat off the slag and check the weld, if we haven’t welded it somewhere, we weld it, check it again, having beaten off the slag.

Moments of assembling a stove for a bath

Assembly of parts of the 2nd stage of the furnace

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the blower and firebox, everything else is in the bath.

Drawing of the inside of the furnace

If you did not have a dressing room, then we will build it together with a sauna stove. The corner where the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done in order to fire safety, because inside the bath is always trimmed with wood.

So, we begin to make an oven, if there is no experience in oven matters or you have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will lay down the oven for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it's time to try it, and I'll tell you how to do it.

• We lay out the base completely of brick, the second row we begin to lay out the ash pan (blower).

Ash pan, blower

After laying the oven should dry for at least 2 weeks, if it is flooded immediately, then microcracks will appear, which will violate the integrity of the furnace. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the stove dries out. It is allowed to heat with small chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if the firebox door no moisture and the walls are dry. You can drive the oven to the full for maintenance, and the oven is ready for use.

• Now let's look at the pipe, the figure shows the finished view of the pipe, which is placed on the furnace we have folded.
• At the iron stove, the heater is located right on the body itself, in our case it is on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank.

The complete oven

Note that the design itself will heavy enough, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal bath stove of an original design is ready. If there is already a finish inside - cover from welding even with roofing material, even with sheets of iron.

Attention. Do not forget, when welding indoors, for fire safety purposes, you need to have a bucket of water and a sprinkler. A spray bottle can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

• Top of the chimney (see Metal chimneys) we strengthen with two reinforcement for rigidity, welded to the pipe and fastened to one wall and to the other. For fastening to the wall, we use a corner or a plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled from both sides.
• We drill a brick with a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and fasten it to the anchor, so we got stiffness angle and stable construction.

View in full: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with a grate for stones

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath come in different forms. Consider an oven made from pipe, its components and assembly scheme. At first glance, a pipe sauna stove has the simplest possible device, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the principle of operation of the furnace, draft and chimney. In all cases, these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with built-in heater

With the independent implementation of the design and some original solutions, so that you get a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, be guided by them, and you will succeed. Do not forget that nothing is impossible for us, so we will dare, strive and surprise others, improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove built or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The stove in the photo above is an easy option as the base is almost done - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm, a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole 335 mm in length, 180 mm wide, this will be our grate, we weld rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart. Separately, we make a box of sheet iron 2-3 mm, in size:

We weld the box, clean the slag.

We weld the door to it and set aside the part for now. Let's deal with the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs, sidewalls on both sides.

• We have a pipe diameter of 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
• With the help of a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it can be easier. Attach our blank (pipe 525) to the sheet and simply circle it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you marked out a part and cut it out, then it is better to measure again and make another one than to copy from the finished one.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath with a large heater

For now, we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the oven and assemble them inside the oven itself, we will alternately apply and boil all other parts in turn.

Cut two holes at the top. One - for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut off the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To keep the structure symmetrical, use the level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, we prepare a niche for stones, cut out the details from a 5 mm iron sheet.

We weld all the details, make a square box, as shown, clean it from slag, coat the seams with plenty of kerosene and see if there are any smudges. We set aside the finished part of the furnace to the side.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, stone, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, threads taut. The rest will be done by gravity, a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal way, just like water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: drawings

Next step: we cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (it separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing rapid heat leakage into the chimney).

Partition for furnace shaft

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from above and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will find out only in the course of work. Measurement can be made using a tape measure and a level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For a note, I’ll tell you how to get by with improvised means, if there is no level and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, a plastic bottle or any transparent, but solid enough object with a base.

We mark the same distance from the bottom on the sides and put marks with a marker. Pour water according to the marks - and here level ready. We put it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

• Set the level, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, we press the level to the pipe so that it does not walk with you, and we put marks inside the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other side.
• We make a measurement label to label.
• We draw a partition on a piece of metal and cut out.
• We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of tacks on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
• We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything converges, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make notes where exactly it does not converge or interferes, pull out the partition, trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps - it's okay, it is brewed by electric welding.
• We also scald a niche for stones.

So, do-it-yourself bath metal stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, retreating from the bottom of 50 mm, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less than 1 cm. If we have a door size of 220x320 mm, then we cut out a hole of 210x310 mm. And we cut out another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Do-it-yourself metal bath stoves with a tank for heating water

If the made metal stove in the bath with your own hands does not have a direct exit from the furnace to the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if you cannot get there. If this is not done, then ash deposits and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will either have to cut through the window, or cut and weld the pipe constantly.

• First we put the sidewall with the future door, scald outside. Through the window for the firebox we weld the partition with the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, we clean everything with a grinder.
• We put the chimney in the cut hole, grab, take the level and measure the vertical from both sides not in parallel, but at an angle. To keep the chimney from being blocked. We scald everything, put an effort for the chimney below.
• Next stage: put the ash pan- blew from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
• AND assembly completion- we weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney, the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

It remains to install the oven in its intended place. At the same time, the installation is carried out so that the heater is not located in the furnace, but outside, which makes it difficult to heat the stones. The stones will heat up much longer than usual, but the effect will still be. Stones for the stove are better to use maritime, they heat up faster, keep heat longer, and if they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron stove for a bath with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the blower is tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

• Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: assembly

  
  Step-by-step guide to assembling a stove for a bath with your own hands. Necessary materials and tools for the work. A detailed step-by-step description of the actions for

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

There are plenty of types of stove equipment: someone prefers a brick heater built by a professional craftsman, and someone likes a metal stove designed by their own hands.

The latter option is economical, as it can be made from improvised materials with your own hands.

Unit advantages

The following main positive points with which the metal stove for the bath is endowed:

• compactness, small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
• No need to build a special massive foundation. For such a stove, a lightweight type of base is also suitable. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
• In a metal sauna stove, it is possible to maintain a constant combustion process, which allows you to keep the temperature at a given value throughout the entire sauna procedure.
• An economical version of furnace equipment, the possibility of building a structure from existing materials.

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Despite the presence of positive aspects, a metal stove for a bath has its own minuses :

1. cools down very quickly, as there is no property of accumulation of thermal energy. In order to maintain a high temperature in the bath, it is necessary to maintain a constant combustion process.
2. low heating capacity of a large room;
3. the need to provide special protection against a fire situation, since the fire safety of a metal structure is low. It is recommended to install additional hull skin.

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

For many, such a parameter as the shape of the structure will seem insignificant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment, the convenience of using it during operation. The furnace unit happens:

The last type is the most common and easy to use. With this configuration, the furnace has corner zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many believe that in a rectangular design, the shape, the frame of the furnace, is best preserved.

The shape of the furnace also affects the uniformity of heating of both the structure itself and the heated room. With the maximum heating of one element of the equipment, the heating of the other decreases. This, in turn, ensures uniform heating of the room, a stable balance of heat flows.

Proper heating of the structure affects its mechanical stability. So, a round or cylindrical furnace is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heat, therefore, denser walls are made for it. A rectangular oven is considered to be resistant to heat, as it has cold corners.

Do-it-yourself oven construction options

It can be said that metal sauna stoves already have a long history, therefore, for such a long period, craftsmen have developed and offered various types of performance.

The simplest option is a metal stove made of an iron barrel. To do this, the bottom and lid of the barrel are cut off, resulting in a cylinder. This cylinder, up to half, is loaded with bricks placed on edge. A grate is laid on top of them. The remaining half of the barrel is 2/3 filled with stones. After that, the chimney is removed and the lid is installed on the furnace. This method of making a furnace, although simple, is inconvenient to use.

For a small bath area, you can build a compact-sized stove using sheet steel. The inner surface of this design is laid out with bricks. The firebox, its walls are laid out in half a brick, the chimney - in one quarter. This type of oven is easy to manufacture and use. To warm up the room, you will need some fuel raw materials. Comfortable room temperature will be achieved after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whichever option is chosen, you will need to prepare the following material:

• sheet steel, the thickness of which is not less than 8 mm;
• a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• rod 10 mm thick;
• grate;
• hecks and doors for the combustion chamber, heater and blower;
• water tap;
• two meters of pipe. Of these, 90 cm will go to the firebox, 60 cm to the tank, and 50 cm to the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, doors for structural elements can be made independently.

Concerning tools, then in the work we will use a grinder and a welding machine.

Option 1: stove design with a closed type of heater

In this type of structure, it is assumed closed view of the stove, therefore, in order to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

A design such as a metal stove for a do-it-yourself bath has the following steps:

• we take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut an opening in it for the blower. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
• Inside the pipe, from the side of the opening, we weld fasteners for the grate, using any metal plate with lugs for this.
• We turn to the arrangement of the firebox: we cut an opening of 25x20 cm, weld the fasteners for the heater rods. We will use rods, 1 cm in diameter, or specially sold grates for a round furnace.
• On the opposite wall of the heater, we cut a hole through which steam is supplied.
• We fill the heater with stones suitable for this type of construction. Talcochlorite, diabase have good properties, combined with a metal surface, flint, granite, mica-containing stones should be excluded.
• In the lid for the furnace, we cut a hole for the chimney pipe and install it.

This completes the manufacturing process of the furnace structure. But still, the masters offer to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, we take a piece of pipe, of large diameter, and weld in a water tap. We prepare the lid for the water tank: we take the lid of the desired size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part, we cut an opening for the chimney, and then weld it onto the tank. We will provide for the second part to be removable, so we weld hinges and a handle to it.

Option 2: stove with an open type of heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet is easy and simple to build such an assembly. His the design is a pipe divided into two compartments using a grate. The upper compartment is a firebox, while the lower one acts as an ashpit-blower. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which fuel can be placed, air supplied, and combustion products removed.

In the far, muffled end of the pipe, we weld the chimney pipe, its diameter is 100 mm.

We weld a metal box on top of the cylindrical body, which is filled with stones. The curved elbow of the chimney allows for maximum heating of the stones, as this increases the contact surface of the hot pipe with the heater.

The described version of the furnace structure is also easy to perform in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, sheets of metal, and not a pipe, will be needed for blanks.

As a rule, for such a stove, the presence of a hot water tank is assumed. In a rectangular oven ways to place the tank many, here are just a few:

• can be done on either side;
• attach on top;
• perform a water jacket on several sides;
• embed pipes for cold and hot water supply.

A convenient way to get hot water is to install a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. You can make such a water heater yourself or buy a ready-made factory one, which has a pipe of a standard size and diameter. In the latter case, the tank cuts into the chimney, its vertical part above the furnace body, and pipes are connected to the supply and intake of water. Such a tank, with sufficient volume, can serve as a water reservoir or simply be a heat exchanger connected to the main water tank.

Option 3: open type metal oven with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complex in execution, but this is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

Such a design is metal body with internal brickwork. At the same time, the requirements for the thickness of steel are reduced: you can take a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. For brickwork, you will need fireclay refractory bricks, mortar. As a solution, a special ready-made dry mix for furnace work is suitable. It is mixed according to the requirements of the instructions for use.

A do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath has the following manufacturing technology:

1. Preparing the base: We weld legs and heel pads to it. This will make the furnace structure stable.

Scheme of a metal sauna stove with an additional brick wall

• We lay out the first solid brick row on this base. For the rest of the rows, we adhere to the following parameters: near the firebox we put it in half a brick, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney channels - a quarter.
• When the blower chamber is ready, install cast iron grate , placing it between the firebox and the ash pan. To design openings for the loading window and the blower, you can use metal corners, 20 x 20 in size. It is important to monitor the evenness between ordinary seams.
• Above the combustion chamber we lay wire mesh metal grill , whose diameter is 12 mm. We will then put stones on this grate.
• When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave it on the right or left opening We will load stones into it, take them out for cleaning, and also splash water into this window during the bathing procedure for vaporization.
• flue channel it is desirable to make tortuous. This will ensure maximum heating of the entire furnace body and complete combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns up, from the back, we create an inspection window. We mount a valve in it, which allows you to keep warm for a long time after the end of the furnace process.
• The top two rows of bricks are laid solid, leaving opening for chimney pipe through which combustion products will be removed.
• After we have finished the brickwork, we give the mortar time to set and dry. After that, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal case. In our situation, this body resembles a kind of case. Corner, 20 x 20, launched at the joints, makes it possible to facilitate welding work, to make the seams airtight.
• Making a workpiece front wall , do not forget to cut openings for the ash pan and the furnace loading chamber. We install the front wall in place, weld the hinges for the doors. We make the door leafs wider by 10 mm on each side than the prepared openings - this will ensure tightness when closing. You can lay an asbestos seal around the perimeter of the door or along its entire inner surface.
• In the side wall blank, we also provide an opening for prepared in brickwork steam generation windows . For this, we install a metal door with sealing material. It is desirable to make it open down, put a cold handle for opening during the bath procedure, when there is a need for steam.
• On the lid for the oven cut out flue pipe hole , the field of which we weld the cover into place. Next, install chimney channel and boil it.
• We install a metal stove for a bath with our own hands at the chosen place and load it with stones.

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

• install a metal sauna stove with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the bath;
• the structure must be located in close proximity to the chimney;
• execution of a special foundation, a base made of refractory materials for placing the furnace;
• the wall of the room, near which there is a metal stove for a bath, should be finished with sheet refractory material.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: photo drawings

Bath stove made of metal: advantages and disadvantages, drawings, photos, 3 options for making a metal unit with your own hands. Video instruction.